Steed tartare

Give the finger to locavores, vegetarians, hundred-mile dieters, and anyone else whose food choices uncomfortably remind you of the failure of your own. Act like you knew an obscure word and had been using it all along.

How can you manage both things at once? Write about the new restaurant the Black Hoof, whose menu of snouts and trotters spans the gamut of cuisine from A to B. Then give the same name to the restaurant, the menu, and the experience – charcuterie.

• Corey Mintz: “[W]e’re in for a treat, not just me or my mates… but all of us, the whole city (except for the vegetarians).”
• Steven Davey: “That’s van Gameren in the ‘Eat More Charcuterie’ T-shirt.”
• Sasha Chapman: “The current obsession with charcuterie, best explored with a glass of wine at… the Black Hoof, is another example of kitchen savvy.”

You needed the sign on the awning to feed you the word. But you don’t need the restaurant in order to be fed. You just want it; you’re in this solely for your own
“atavistic need to fatten up on salt and meat grease.” Some of us have come a longer way than the distance from nose to tail.